Happy Birthday Singapore!

On the 9 August Singapore became forty three years old. National Day is widely supported as depicted by the flags which have been flying from most buildings and lamp posts for the last three weeks or so. On the surface at least Singapore is a proud nation that likes to celebrate being Singaporean. It contrasts somewhat with England where St George's Day passes by without hardly a murmur despite annual efforts to revive the spirit and generate enthusiasm. I think this is a statement more about the English who only seem to celebrate being English when the the national football team threaten to qualify further than the preliminary rounds of a World Cup or European final competition. For some reason we seem to be embarrassed to publicly acknowledge our sense of collective pride in who we are and what we have achieved. On second thoughts I had better not reflect too much on this.

Modern day Singapore was born out of post war alienation. Britain's ability to rule was in doubt and the perception was that Singapore could not achieve anything more than just being a sleepy extension to the southern end of Malaya. The country was dragged into the bitter conflict of the Malaya crisis and Communism but slowly in the early 1950's, mainly due to the newly formed People's Action Party, a plan emerged to industrialise Singapore's economy.

In 1963 Singapore joined the Malay Federation but after two years it was invited to leave, rather like an unwanted guest at a party! It's ego must have been dented and a sense of worthlessness must have been overwhelming. But, as history now shows us, this was the catalyst for this multi-cultural nation to embark on an ambitious programme of social infrastructure renewal and invention that has created the strong nation it is today. Maybe this is where Singapore's pride and self belief originates from.

Singapore has generated tangible self respect through its social behaviour policies and by doing so has created a strong identity for itself and its population. Enforceable policies of no litter, banning chewing gum, no urinating in public places are admittedly mildly amusing to my Englishness, but I would welcome such behaviour in England. Wouldn't England be a better place to live without the loutish behaviour and like of respect for property regardless of who it belongs to?

Today Singapore is feeling the effects of the world economy downturn just like anybody else, but the feeling is a unity and self belief that having being dumped forty three years ago they have produced a country that is highly desirable. If it wasn't for the innate respect they have you can almost imagine the smugness.

Happy Birthday Singapore!!

So it was with eager anticipation I set out to witness the events in the city. The weather looked threatening but I decided to go ahead anyway. After a quick walk through the Arab district I arrived at the Marina Mall close to the floating pitch I mentioned in a previous post. It turned out that the main event was taking place here but entry is by ticket only! It seems National pride has a price after all!.

There was quite a crowd eagerly awaiting a glimpse of the fly pass from the Singaporean air force and the climax of the firework display. It was in all honestly a bit of a let down from where I was standing, but there was a good atmosphere and although the fireworks from Beijing the previous evening are going to eclipse firework displays for a long time to come, it was a very impressive display nonetheless.

The crowd was happy and dispersed into the Marina Mall to continue shopping and browsing in the endless shops and stores that seem to suddenly appear from nowhere.

I walked back to the Arab district and discovered Burgis Village night market where you can buy Cd's and fake designer watches for S$5 each (£2!). This is another face of Singapore away from the glitzy marble and air con of the malls, where the buzz of the Asian wheeler dealers is alive and thriving. It's the same vibrancy you find in Bangkok and Hong Kong and there's a feeling that in this relatively new country the centuries old traditions of Asia have not been replaced, and, on reflection they never will be.

Despite being young and successful 'Global' Singapore still has the old experienced Asian hands to guide it through the modernity of its aspirations and to make sure it remembers its roots.