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Wednesday 25 February 2009

A weekend in Thamuang - Day 2; Fishing

After the morning's tumultuous events with the band and the monks' ordination there was barely time to catch my breath before Khamma reminded me that her brother and nephew were fishing with a couple of friends in a pond in the rice field at the back of Owerrrouse. In fact it was the same pond I mentioned in a blog in April last year.


The pond had been previously excavated and the soil deposited on the 'make tall' wall of Owerrrouse following it's partial collapse after heavy rain. It was now about two metres deep in places and the water pump was used to drain out enough water so that it was possible to stand up without drowning! Good progress had been made and by the time we had arrived the boys were wading neck deep trawlling a net behind them in the hope the fish would get tangled up. Their movements were slow due to their feet sinking into the mud and silt on the bottom of the pond and the weight of the net they were pulling. I was reminded of synchronised swimming as they weaved across the pond trying to make a 'basket' out the net to be lifted up out of the water by the enthusiastic onlookers. I wasn't actually sure this elaborate ducking and diving was in any way co-ordinated, but it was much better to watch than participate in, about that I was certain! I wasn't invited to take part and I didn't let my enthusiasm get the better of me, saving my ineptitude for another day.





They had a good first trawl with some fairly large catfish type specimens but mainly medium sized fish, that should really have been given a second chance, in my humble opinion.

For some reason they decided to use a second net, but this ended in comical fashion. The mesh was too fine and the water couldn't pass through making it difficult to pull. Khamma's brother, Bung, was hilarious as he tried to move forward in the sticky mud pulling a dead weight. He succeeded in quickly going nowhere except for the occasional ducking as he slipped under the water. They caught nothing and I am sure I heard the fish laughing as loud as the experts who were gathered on the edge the pond in the shade of a convenient tree.


Meanwhile Bung's son was pulling out fish from under the bank and received the unwanted attention of a leech who had taken a good hold on his shoulder. A third net appeared from somewhere and this proved to be the most successful because it had a chain weighting down the bottom edge. A few passes up and down the pond added to the catch and about 50 fish were ready for their fate on the BBQ.




As the fishermen showered and cleaned up the fishermens' wives gutted the fish and prepared several Thai style recipes including fish soup with herbs, BBQ fish basted with chilli, fried fish with vegetables and spices and tonnes of rice. There was plenty of Thai whiskey, the odd glass of beer and much needed fizzy drinks.

We all sat around the outside table in Bung's yard and chatted away talking about the ordination, the farang in the band, and I imagine a lot of other gossip I wasn't privy to.




Eventually I took myself away and left them to it. Khamma's friend had called round and they were busy chatting about husbands and children and looking at the photos from England. Occasionally I was asked a question, but I was happy to hear the lyrical tones of their chatter and imagined they were singing rather than gossiping.



The day ended with a magnificent orange sunset. The dark descends quickly and announces the end of the day and time for sleep. Thamuang's pattern is the same everyday; it is alive when there is daylight with many adventures and surprising things to do and see, but as soon as darkness arrives it is time to sleep and be at peace in this amazing place.

2 comments:

  1. A lovely story.

    Yes, we must deal with our fish pond too. It's choked with vegetation and there's probably some big cats in there.

    Andrew

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  2. Great post!! And great pic of the end of day sunset to finish it. There's something simple and pure about living your life by the rise and setting of the sun. Perfectly in balance with nature. In the rest of the world the sunrise and set is almost an afterthought, and your schedule is set around more complicated aspects of your life.

    I love the thai way of fishing. I grew up fishing for trout, and it was an entirely different affair. I've always loved how the thais make their own little personal backyard lake. Or frontyard in the case of khmers. The fish are usually a catfish variety, and pretty muddy tasting, but incredibly fast growing. And fun to catch.

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