What's Changed?

I was apprehensive about the journey back to Thailand and Thamuang village.  Just over a year ago, when I was taken ill and hospitalised, I had already checked in with KLM 'on-line' for my post Christmas flight to Thailand.  What followed then was a series of events amounting to a long story over a short period of time.  For the three weeks I was supposed to be in Thailand with Khamma, I spent my time in three different Manchester hospitals.  Instead of me going to Thailand, Khamma came to England for five months to nurse me back to health.  I will always be indebted to her loving care and attention.  Despite the circumstances, or because of them, we grew closer than ever. 
I worked hard, encouraged by Khamma, and regained weight, some kind of fitness and desire to do all the rights - just as before.  No change there then!
Last week was like a re-enactment of the events from twelve months ago.  Flash backs to events involving ambulances, hospital wards and worst of all; operations.  I was repeating pre-flight preparations; packing, check in, going through the 'to do' list.  A repeat of the same actions hoping for a different result. 
I didn't sleep at all on the ten hour flight from Amsterdam and arrived in Ubon Ratchathani exhausted exactly seventeen hours from leaving Manchester.  No dramas, no suspicious pains or missed heart beats.  What exactly should I be worried about?
The first changes?  Khamma was there to greet me with a smile as wide as the Asian continent.  It's great to be with her again.  For the first time she arrives at the airport in her new car.  She learnt to drive last year and passed he test first time.  We then bought a car, which will make a huge difference to our time together.
The second change?
During October last year, the passenger hall at Ubon airport was gutted by fire.  Passengers are diverted into a temporary facility.  In Thai terms, this counts as a recent fire, and a new passenger hall will eventually be built.
Other changes? Apart from the new car (a Honda City), Khamma project managed a car port, a re-furbished Thai kitchen and the installation of air-con in the bed room.
All these changes upgraded Owerhouse from five star to fire star deluxe!
I had arrived, needed a rest but ready for a break - at last.



 

Twelve months on

It's now a little over  twelve months since my heart by-pass operation.  Slowly I am looking towards the future rather than looking backwards to the past.  It's no use saying 'and what might have been', because what might have been, in this case, was an abrupt end.  An end like an unfinished symphony.  An end of without warning.  An end too soon.
It's a long story, but it only lasted a short time.  One minute there is no problem and I am enjoying the pleasurable things in the little world I have made for myself.  Then literally in the next minute everything is turned upside and shaken up in a maelstrom of uncertainty leaving me with a clichéd notion of a life changing experience, an experience that is not welcome.
Might sound dramatic, but from running a five kilometre road race to ending up in A&E and not allowed to move for 48 hours, then being told I have a 90% blockage in one artery and significant blockages in two others, which cannot be treated through medication, cannot be dealt with by stents and only by-pass surgery will give me any chance of avoiding a serious heart attack.  Gulp.  Well how dramatic does it have to be?
I was totally (totally) unprepared for this.  I had no idea there was a problem until I experienced an unusual heart rhythm.
In the end I had five arteries by-passed.  I have heard of three and four, but five!  Why me?  My doctors say I was lucky.  I don't feel all that re-assured, but I should be.
The plumbing around my heart is presumably healed satisfactorily.  I have not had any internal pain or scary moments when 'things don't feel right'.  The healing of my chest wounds has taken some time and I still get the occasional twinge from unhealed nerve endings. 
The real problem is inside my head.
Doctors can check the plumbing, people can associate with the pain of opening up the chest and sticking it back together with a staple gun, but only the individual can feel the psychological pain.  The nagging doubt, the need for re-assurance, the craving for an injection of confidence to make the monkey climb down from my back.
Physically I am jogging, cycling and enjoying exercise about four times a week, but I am in a constant battle with my mind.  My internal control centre is monitoring every heart beat, checking for unusual pain, observing heart rate, training zones and fitness.  All the time wondering if, when and where I will have another 'silent heart attack'.
My emotions are very close to surface.  For reasons I cannot explain I become overwhelmed when I talk about the operation.  I cannot let go of the trauma, because trauma it is.  I don't think it is like the post traumatic stress disorder of fighting in a war, but it is post traumatic stress and it is silent, hidden and lies in wait to catch me off guard.  It needs to come out so I can move on with a greater confidence and assurance.  It needs to come out so I don't have emotional moments when talking with people who have genuine concern.  It needs to come out so I can forgive the handful of friends who have not found their own strength to offer support when I need it most.
I have touched the cornerstone of my life and realised it could have been over much too soon. 
I need to move on.
I am in Thailand for the first time in sixteen months.  Life in Asia and Thamuang goes on.  My Life Goes On - same same!
 

A visit to Ubon Ratchathani general hospital

Having driven many hundreds of kilometres, we arrived in Ubon Ratchathani. En route, Khamma learned that one of her many cousins had been admitted to the general hospital for a serious operation on his stomach.  We decided to call in to wish him well and hopefully raise his spirits.
This was my first visit to a Thai general public hospital, the equivalent of the UK National Health Service.  I have heard many stories about being a patient in a Thai general hospital and how families can stay for the duration to look after them and tend to their needs.  In the UK this is usually the job of the medical staff and members of the family are confined to certain hours in which to visit.
Thailand has a private medical service, which is excellent and apparently cheaper than the UK.  In fact in Bangkok there is a thriving 'medical tourist' industry for all sorts of operations from nose jobs to surgical operations and procedures.
A few months ago, a Farang friend from the next village was knocked off his motorbike and very close to being killed.  He ended up in Ubon's general hospital. Late in the evening his friend arrived, took one look at his injuries, discharged him and took him to the private hospital.  In the end my friend's leg was rebuilt and he made a good recovery.  It was expensive but because the private hospital had more resources, he had a much better outcome than the one he would have had in the general hospital.
When we arrived at Ubon general hospital we entered reception, which was a large hall with many rows of chairs fixed together and to the floor.  There was a notional waiting system, but, once called ("eventually" according to Khamma) patients are transferred to the next hall to wait for attention.  In this hall some people were already on beds; some with drips, some in pain, some sleeping, some just staring into space, all of them sick.
At the end of the hall was a corridor leading to the wards.  Medical staff milled about; some looking intent on their work, some eating lunch, some just sitting.
The corridors were busy with the hussle and bussle of medical staff and members of the public. Everyone was scurrying off somewhere but I looked around and took it all in.
One patient (I could not tell if it was male, female, young or old or even alive or dead!) was being man handled into the back of a pick up truck.  The family piled in as well and off it went.
There was building construction site in the middle of the hospital and in a small space next to the rubble and cement mixers was a family eating lunch!  The canteen was only 20 metres away, but, to be honest it did not look very inviting especially as I was standing in a corridor that passed the open windows of the kitchen where the cooking smells mingled with those of the hospital.
By now I was feeling like a rabbit in the headlights (probably looking like one as well!).  We entered the lift, and my senses were brought back to temporary normality.  Arriving at the ward we saw patients lying in their beds next to the lift door.  As we passed by I felt sorrowful eyes fix on me as a foreigner and a distraction to their discomfort.  We walked along the corridor to the ward entrance.  There were no outside windows, just an open space to let the outside air circulate through, although it was as earring 35degrees plus.  The view from here was the building site and canteen.
Inside the ward were at least twenty beds with all manner of sick people.  I thought if I were in here, it would be difficult to get better.
We found Khamma's cousin by the lift.  We had missed him first time around.  He seemed OK.  His wife was there to look after him and his sister was asleep on a chair.  They keep him company between his sleeps and give him drinks, which is vital in the heat.  The nursing staff are busy elsewhere.  The space between each bed was about 18 inches, and not enough to create some privacy.  The visitor to the patient in the next bed was almost sitting on Khammas cousin's bed.
This was certainly an interesting experience into a Thai hospital.
On my return to England there was great debate about the state of several failing NHS hospitals including one in Greater Manchester, not far from where I live.  It did make me think that if I was ever taken ill, I would prefer to be in England, whichever hospital was the nearest.
Little did I know that experience was nearer than I thought!

Driving Like 'An Idiot Abroad'

Overall we travelled over 5,000 kilometres, but I couldn't get used to driving Thailand style.  At times I felt like I was whinging a la Karl Pilkington on the excellent TV series 'An Idiot Abroad', but I did feel I was in an unreal situation and I had definitely applied my Englishness to the situation.
Top Ten Whinges and bum clenching moments:

1. Driving on a super wide road with two lanes in each direction and a generous 'hard shoulder' for motorbikes.  The road markings are clear with a wide hatched area marking the centre of the road.  I am in the inside lane, a motorbike coming towards me on the hard shoulder, one car overtaking on the outside lane and a car overtaking that one travelling on the wrong side of the road, with a car coming head on towards it.  Emergency braking keeping in the inside lane to allow cars to avoid head on smash.
2. Travelling in the inside lane and a truck turning in to the lane from a side road.  Thai traffic law allows you turn left if there is no oncoming traffic, but clearly this truck had another interpretation.  Rapid emergency braking in a straight line to avoid collision.
3. Tailgating on bendy roads.
4. Lane weaving - overtaking, undertaking, overtaking, undertaking.
5. Driving on a wide dual carriage which is narrowing into one lane.  Pick up truck coming in opposite direction cannot wait for the road to widen, pulls over into my narrowing lanes to overtake another car.  Rapid avoidance to avoid head on collision.
6. Double lines in the middle of the road indicating a bend and (usually) do not overtake or drift over the lines, because of danger of cars approaching in the opposite direction.  Thai drivers ignore this in a game of 'death wish', usually with me having to taking avoiding action.
7. In general the roads are in good condition, but there are areas of road churning up by overloaded trucks and pot holes, sometimes deep and wide, lying in wait to test the suspension and shock absorbers to their limits.
8. Urban motorbikers weaving between cars in heavy traffic.  Great on UTube; hairy moments for an idiot abroad.
9. Rural motorbikers riding without tail lights at night.
10. Endless police check points for no apparent reason.

Having said that, there are some great points:

1. Parking is free everywhere
2. Petrol is about 37 bhat per litre; which is £0.75 per litre.  (UK is £1.35 per litre)
3. Petrol attendants to fill up the tank
4. Can turn left on a red traffic light IF the road is clear.
5. There is a lack of road rage because Thai people are non aggressive and the windows in every car are heavily tinted so you cannot see what gestures are coming your way, and the air conditioning keeps people cool

But best of all was the sat nav in my Nokia Lumia 825.  This simple easy to use app saved us from getting lost several times.

Thai Drums

It was not long after building 'Owerrrouse' that Khamma introduced me to the village band.  Not the ageing rockers of England style, nor the brass band of Diggle, but the Thamuang Glong Neiow - the traditional Issan village drum band.  Most villages have a band and I am reliably if not impartially advised that Thamuang is pretty good.  See these previous posts

http://lifeinasiaandthamuang.blogspot.com/2009/04/drumming-up-funds-for-temple-and.html

http://lifeinasiaandthamuang.blogspot.com/2011/07/ubon-ratchathani-candle-festival-16.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3MHo4RJTaA

Since then, back in England, I have started to master the bodhran (Irish drum) and I aspire to become more proficient, but that's another story.  The point is, my interest in drumming has increased and I don't need an excuse to tap out a rhythm on a steering wheel or dinner table - its an age thing really and latent desire to be a pop star.  Anyway on browsing through the tourist literature at Ayutthaya, Khamma came across a village renowned internationally for the quality of its Thai drums.  Using my sat nav, I found it was only 30 minutes away and there was no excuse for missing an opportunity.  The village is called Ban Bang Phae and a quick Google found other encouraging references that made it inevitable we would call in on our way home.

The lady in the sat nav guided us straight there without a problem.  Ban Bang Phae is a linear village and on a quick drive through, we could see at least 10 shops selling a all sizes of drums and even at 9am there was a lot of drum making activity.

We settled on a shop where the owner was pleased and proud to take us on a guided tour of his 'factory'. In Thailand there is always a sense that nothing is thrown away, there is a permanent temporariness over old bits of machinery, wood, old paint tins etc.  I am all for re-cycling, but if it can't be utilised within six months, there is an argument it cannot be used at all.  In Thailand where there are bits of stuff lying around, there is hope it has a use for something unknown; eventually!  Such is the scene in our friends drum factory - old lathes, bits of wood, nails and skins all lying around in a mess.  But out of the mess rises a beauty.  A lot of drums from this factory are made to order - especially for Japan and the USA.




The drum base is cut on a lathe from local soft wood.  It is dried in a kiln for several days. The construction of the kiln is typical of Thai ingenuity.  The pictures show a fire and on close inspection you can see a chimney which directs the heat into the kiln.

The kiln is similar to old container found on a container ship and it can hold a lot of drum.











The drum skin is cured cowhide, buffalo or even sheepskin.  Some drums have the retained the hair, some have it removed.  It is left to dry in the sun and when ready a template is used to cut the skin to the exact size required for the particular drum.








The skin is placed on the drum and stretched with the use of tension pulleys.

Whilst the skin is settling on the drum the exact markings to locate the nails or tacks is scribed onto the skin. At the appropriate time the tacks are hammered home, and in effect take over the tension of the skin from the tension pulleys.

It takes about three months to make a drum, and yes I could not resist adding to my collection.

Workshop

Store room

Store room

Important order for Japanese drumming ensemble

Motif

Ayyuthaya or is it Ayutthaya?

Whichever it is spelt it is one of the must see places for the serious visitor to Thailand.  Whilst there are many beautiful beaches, national parks and temples to visit, there is also a deep cultural heritage about which the Thais are justifiably very proud.
The city is about 80 kms north of Bangkok and was once the capital of the Thai kingdom, and an important trading centre.  Most of the once gleaming temples and palaces are now brooding ruins, but in places there is a sense of atmosphere and the excellent museums provide the bigger picture.
Ayutthaya (Pronounced Ah-yut-hi-ya) is an island with UNESCO World Heritage status and sits at the confluence of the rivers Pasak, Lopburi and Chao Phraya.
The quick history:
1351 Founded and based on trade with India and China
By 1550 it had flourished at the expense of the declining Khmer empire
1685 population 1 million
1600's forty nationalities set up trading posts
1767 the Burmese army captured the city
Left in ruins and a new capital city was created on Ratanakosin Island in Bangkok.

Neither Khamma nor I had any idea how much time we might need to explore the city.  We thought a day would be enough, but two is probably better.  There are many temples and they are well spaced out, so walking is ambitious, especially in the searing heat.  Bicycles, motor bikes, or cars are more practical.
We visited Wat Phra Maharat, Wat Ratburana, Wat Na Phra Mane, the visitor centre and the museum.  We missed out on the Royal Palace and several other temples.

We enjoyed a street meal at the night market - eat all you can for 100 bhat! See picture below.

Buddha's head entwined in the roots of bodhi tree - Wat Phre Maharat

Many buddha heads missing

Wat Ratburana

Wat Na Phra Mane

Buddha in National museum

The biggest mobile rotating BBQ 

Prachaup Khiri Khan to Ayyuthaya

A few weeks ago, back in England, I was contemplating the road atlas of Thailand and planning the route from Phuket to Thamuang.  It is a long way; the best part of 1,500 kilometres, and to make it manageable and enjoyable I decided to definitely break the journey at Ayyuthaya.  Khamma and I often said we would like to visit the ancient city of Siam.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage city and has very strong connections with Thai culture and history.  We had already enjoyed a stopover at PKK, and a day's break in Ayyuthaya seemed perfect.
Looking at the map, the journey seemed straightforward enough; route 4 north as far as road 35 east to road 9 north to Ayyuthaya.  We set off from Prachuap at a reasonable 9am and estimated our arrival at around 4pm.  I set the sat nav, not that I particularly thought we would need it (ha ha), but because we had it and had grown confident in the way it guided us around.  In any case, on a serious note, we were going to flirt on the outskirts of Bangkok and after the last experience of driving there I thought we needed all the help on offer.
Time moved on and after a short stop at the Floating Market in Hua Hin (not recommended) we found route 35 and moved closer to Bangkok.  At this point the simplicity of the map was overwhelmed by the reality of the Bangkok traffic.  The intersections are plain enough on paper, but the problem of getting the car into the correct lane and therefore the right direction, is another matter entirely.  Five and six lane roadways converging into huge junctions.  The signs for route 9 are clear enough and ever so close, but it was a battle to get there.  The sat nav lady was speaking directions in such a clear calm but insistent voice I thought she was talking to me from the meditation room in the nearby temple.  I was frantically looking how best to cut across six lanes of a moving mass of traffic with bicycles, motorbikes, motorbikes with sidecars, trucks, lorries, transporters, tankers, articulated lorries from China, Malaya, Laos and Cambodia and cars of every shape and size and some were even roadworthy!  Every one of us wanted to go in a different direction and began weaving in and out in the automotive equivalent of musical chairs, the music stopping when a red light appeared, and even then some cheated and carried on.  Remarkably no one crashed, on this occasion, no one got hurt and as far as I could tell, I was the only one worried by it all, followed by Khamma (maybe at my driving rather than the frenzy around us - I don't know and I didn't ask).
The road appeared endless, and at one time it passed underneath the construction of the extension to the Bangkok urban train.  But, in due course the mayhem started to subside and we could relax as the signs started to appear for Ayyuthaya.  We arrived unshaken, but a little stirred, at 4pm.
Another experience and thankfully one we survived.  At least the car hire company will be pleased.

Prachuap Khiri Khan

With an exotic sounding name of Prachuap Khiri Khan and almost half way between Bangkok and Phuket, this seaside resort was the ideal location to break our journey.  Note that Prachuap Khri Khan is a sun rise town on the east coast and facing the Gulf of Thailand.
We easily found a reasonable hotel with a sea view and stretched our legs along the prom joining the lucky people of PKK in the evening sun and heat.  Sea food is the only choice and there are endless restaurants competing for custom.  We could have spent more time here, and doubtless will in thhe times to come, but meanwhile it is worth a noting a photo or two and if ever you find yourself in this neck of the Thailand woods; just do it and spend a couple of days here!

Sun rise - stunning views from the balcony 

Early morning view from the beach

Stillness and amazing cloud formations

Phuket's quieter places

We soon realised that Phuket should not be judged by what we saw sprawled out each side of road 402. August is the 'off peak' season and the number of visitors is low, which makes the shops empty, the hotels and restaurants are only a quarter full, but the weather is not bad and it does not stop you from doing what you would have done if you were there in the 'peak' season.
We stayed for 5 nights in Surin, which is on the west of the island about 15 minutes drive north of Patong and the next bay along from Kamala Bay.  The sea is not exactly rough this time of year, but it does give a few exciting moments as waves crash on the steep beach.  The under current is a potential danger to watch out for.




A more remote beach can be found at Nai Thon. This is so laid back it hardly wakes up at all.  Beach restaurants serve fantastic southern Thai dishes laced with coconut and fruit smoothies.  The beach was endless and the surf crashing down.  The enthusiastic life guards seemed to be in constant training, which was very re-assuring.







Nai Thon is on the west of the island, making it a sunset location - and they never fail to please.  I can never quite decide if I am a sunset or sunrise person, but I do appreciate a good sunset after a great day out.  The sun drops quickly in the last hour and it reminds that wherever you are in the world and you watch the sun set, it is the same sun, but it is the surroundings and the company that make it complete.








On another day we spent a lazy afternoon at Nai Harn beach, which is very close the iconic picture of Phuket taken at the view point from Promthep, the most southerly part of the island.

Karon beach is a popular tanning spot for Patong's sun worshippers.  Apart from driving through Patong on a couple occasions, we did not venture into its flesh pot.  This was like Blackpool in its hay day and Benidorm at its worst.  Great for a stag do.

Karon beach did not disappoint when the sun sank slow into the horizon. 

This is living pal!

After five nights at Surin beach we made a move 2 kilometres round the headland to Bangtao beach and the excellent Blue Garden hotel.

The owner is an amiable Frenchman called Eric Seigneurin and the staff are delightful.  The rooms are simple and placed around the pool with an open bar with spacious table settings.
We liked this place so much we extended our stay. www.bluegarden-phuket.com

There are lots of restaurants in Bangtao, the beach is fantastic and stretches for about two miles end to end. 

I was so inspired I got up early one morning to jog along the beach.  Soft sand made it hard going but it was well worth the effort.  

Bangtao is on the sunset side of the island, so we enjoyed further magnificent light shows and endless peace, solitude and quiteness.


It was difficult to leave this place, but eventually we pulled ourselves away to make the long journey north to Ayutthaya, via Prachuap Khiri Khan.

Driving south to Phuket

After leaving the Bangkok maelstrom we started to move south onto relatively calmer highways.  I say calmer, but to me I still felt out of my depth.  I had a natural urge to defend what I thought was my vehicular space and to make it difficult for the mad drivers who tried to undertake and cut in front, or overtake when an overloaded lorry was hurtling towards us at a closing speed of a 100 miles an hour.  It is of course my imported, and ill founded road sense that is the problem.  I gradually realised that by acting differently I was the issue; therefore if I behaved like other drivers, that is behave badly, I will blend in, not be a problem and hence forth enjoy the experience instead of trying to fight it. To some extent this strategy works, and it does at least while away the miles.
Our first night's stop was at the holiday resort of Hua Hin.  It is a well liked resort for thousands of Bangkok's citizens who make their holiday homes here or come away for the weekend or day trip.  It lives up to its reputation and is a very pleasing place, with fresh sea air overlooking the Gulf of Thailand - it is a sun rise location.  August is the start of the low season in Thailand due to the monsoon.  This was apparent in relatively few tourists frequenting an over-abundance of bars, restaurants and hotel amenities.
Next day, after an early start, we had a long drive to Ranong.  Following the Route 4 for tens of miles, there is suddenly a choice of route to Phuket at a town called Chumphon; the road divides by going due west to the Andaman coast (sun set country) or continues south towards Surat Thani (sun rise country).  They meet up again at the the Sarasin bridge linking Phuket island to the mainland.  Ranong is officially the wettest town in Thailand with annual rainfall in excess of 650cm, which is 255 inches in old money!  It is a border town with Myanmar (Burma) and is very close to the Andaman Sea.  At this point Thailand is a very narrow strip of land only 27 miles from coast to coast.  This is what my geography teacher described as an 'isthmus'.
Three interesting things about Ranong:

1. The Japanese landed here on 8 December 1941 (the day before Pearl Harbour) and thus started the Pacific War.
2. It is a site for a proposed canal linking the Andaman sea with the Gulf of Thailand - but whether this will take place is another story.
3. The isthmus marks the boundary between two sections of the central cordillera, the mountain chain which runs from Tibet through all of the Malay peninsula. (I just find a link with Tibet from so far south in Thailand is fascinating).

The mountain road from Chumphon was bendy and up and down hill.  Heavy violent showers stopped suddenly with dazzling outbreaks of sunshine.  The road is not fast and in parts is being re-built but it is scenic and made a change from the flat road leading out of Hua Hin.

We found a hotel called the Tinidee, which in Thai means 'a nice place'.  We were offered the last room of the 138 bedrooms.  The rest were occupied by Thai army officers and a university trip. 

Next day we set off on the final leg to Phuket.  The road runs very close to the Andaman coast and was the scene of devastation in the 2004 Tsunami.  Along the way we stopped at a village and wandered down to the beach. With video scenes etched in the memory of the tsunami wave breaking over land, it did not take any imagination to visualise the terror and destruction it must have created. It is almost 10 years since the disaster but the frequent road signs warning of the danger and showing the escape routes are reminders of what happened, and could happen again.

The road to Phuket gradually became busier probably because it isn't all that wide, there are more resorts and villages, and it was the weekend. Add to this that we had been on the road for three days and becoming tired of driving; we were very keen to find a nice hotel and relax for a few days.

Enter Phuket.  There was some excitement as we crossed the Sarasin bridge and passed through the token checkpoint manned by less than enthusiastic policemen.  But excitement soon changed as we drove down the 402.  I thought we had burst into a time bubble and playing in a virtual reality X Box computer game.  The main culprits are the van drivers - hell bent on driving from A to B as if they chasing Lewis Hamilton on a Sunday afternoon in Monza.  I suppose what surprised me most was the high visibility commercialisation (is that a word?)  Given that the road sign-age is very similar to that found in the USA, plus the huge advertising hoardings vying for attention to visit this place and that place, I was, for a moment at least, thinking I was in Las Vegas.
We were trying to get to Surin and missed the turning (American signage to blame? My excuse) and ended up in down town Patong.  The road is steep and very twisty with hairpins not dis-similar to Alp d'Huez (yes really).  It was here I cut my teeth as a driver in Thailand.  It was like a boy becoming a man. With 95% of the traffic straining to take an advantage to go as fast as possible on the wrong side of the line which I would consider safe, I decided you cannot dictate how to drive, you just have to join them.  Khamma thought she was on a roller coaster, I was tired and pushing my luck, but after an exciting (Khamma said scarry) five or ten minutes, we made it and found the road to Surin.
Exhausted, crabby and bad tempered we eventually found a hotel in Surin Bay.
After a shower and settling in we had a lovely meal overlooking the beach, and Phuket's charm began its magic.

Driving in Thailand

I have driven in many out of the way places - across the USA on Route 66, East Canada, South Africa, Namibia, Botswana and even Zimbabwe.  But it was with some trepidation that I decided to hire a car for my latest trip to Thailand.  I can recommend Sixt at Bangkok airport - excellent price, no fuss service and a reasonable car.
I was pleased that the sat nav in my new Nokia 825 works just as well as it does in England, and the lady inside the device speaks English as opposed to Thai!!!
Everything was set up and all I wanted to do was to avoid the centre of Bangkok as we drove south to Phuket.  Alas, about 5km out of the airport, the sat nav took me off the motorway and into the maelstrom that is Bangkok on a Thursday afternoon.  There was no way I could find my way back onto the motorway and my only choice was to follow the instructions uttered from the lady in the computer.
There doesn't appear to be many rules of the road.  OK they drive on the left, which is a great bonus for a Brit abroad.  But there the similarities end; motorcycles weaving in and out from nearside and offside, front and back.  The odd car driving towards you on the wrong side of the road.  The sudden stops, lack of direction indication and tailgating.  It's a recipe for an accident and I was well outside my comfort zone.  Even the sat nav sometimes said go left when it meant straight ahead, because there was no left down which to turn.
On one occasion I had to turn left because I could not switch back into the straight ahead lane.  The sat nave recovery was good, but we ended up in a dodgy back street before returning to the main road.  The next time this happened I was not going to be foiled.  After an hour or so, I started to fight back.  It seems like aggression is a great leveller whist driving anywhere in Thailand.  I worked out that nobody wants to damage their bike or car, so accidents will only happen if there is a sudden change of driving habit.  Being timid does not work!
The road often diverged into three of four lanes and I tended to keep left where I felt I stood a better chance.  Suddenly the left lane was turning left and the 'turn left' arrow was followed by those cones stuck into the cats eyes and they were approaching very quickly.  With the reactions of Lewis Hamilton I glanced in the offside mirror and there was a gap just enough for me to switch lanes.  We carried on about 100 metres when a policeman on an ageing motorbike appeared at my side and waved me in.
He looked surprised when he saw a farang, but that did not stop him fining me 500 bhat (10GBP) for the offence.  Luckily Khamma spoke up and asked him why he was charging 500 bhat instead of the 'standard' 400 bhat.  He asked her how she knew such 'fine' (pun intended) detail and she replied that her cousin was also a cop.  That said he took my licence and 400 bhat, but I did not receive a ticket.  I can only assume he pocketed the money, or am I being cynical?
Two hours later we emerged on the other side of the city.  It took about an hour longer than it should, but it was an experience - not to be repeated.
Whilst driving along Khamma reminded me that if there was an accident and even if it was not my fault, I would be expected to pay damages for the bike or car and any hospital treatment for the victim.  How does that work?  Somebody throws themselves at the car and I have to pay (?) This is Thailand.  I keep reminding myself to drive safe.

More sad news

My friend Billy passed away last month.  Billy was a hard working British ex pat farang and had lived in the village of Yankerdow, which is on Highway 2050 and about 6 kilometres from Thamuang.  

We shared a passion for Man United and watched several live games in the dead of night, drinking Leo beer on ice.  Billy was also passionate about growing cashew nuts and over the years worked tirelessly to improve the crop yield.  Quite often it seemed a more a labour of love than a way to make an income, and it's ironic that this year's crop was a great improvement on last year's.  

On my visit to Thamuang in May, I was shocked to see how Billy had lost a lot of weight and was growing weaker.  Sadly he died in the early hours on 13 June, but by all accounts he was very peaceful and didn't suffer a long illness.  

Khamma, bless her, went to Billy's house early in the morning and helped Wan (Billy's wife) to prepare for his funeral.  Most funerals are organised and prepared by family and friends and as the news spread they started to arrive at the house.  The womenfolk have to prepare a continuous supply of food for the guests in the days leading up to the funeral.  The menfolk sit around drinking beer and chewing the fat.  Billy would have liked that!

Eventually the funeral took place at the village temple in full Thai tradition.  

Bye Billy boy, it was a pleasure to know you.

The Unfortunate and Sad Side to Life in Thamuang

I tend to write optimistic blogs about my life in Asia and Thamuang in particular.  I am sometimes cynical, sometimes grumpy but rarely have I had the need to write about sad news.  The truth is there isn't a lot of sad news to write about, but when something comes along, it is all the more shocking.

The other day news came in that a young boy, about 16 years old, had been missing from his home for a couple of days.  Apparently he lived with his grandmother and his parents worked in Bangkok where the money is better.  These circumstances are quite common for many families in most Issan villages, and indeed was the case with Khamma for two or three years.  Money is necessary for food, education and housing and there isn't much of it growing rice year and year out.  Families are forced to live apart and youngsters have to adapt quickly to a life with grandparents and basically fending for themselves.

In many ways this is good because the children contribute to daily chores like cooking, shopping and cleaning and working in the fields.  Everyone, regardless of age, has to chip in to make the home operate.  However, children do feel the pressures.  After all children are children wherever they are in the world.

Keeping up at school is difficult.  Class sizes often consist of 45 to 50 kids and the teacher has to accommodate them in two or three rooms.  This obviously has its affect on academic progress and as kids reach their mid teens they are often difficult to control - just like any kids.

Sadly this poor boy decided to leave home and did not tell anybody.  His body was found two days later in the river about five miles downstream.  He apparently took his own life because he could no longer handle the pressure.

The village follows certain procedure in these situations, because according to Buddhist tradition the body cannot be cremated, but has to buried.  And so it was that he was buried in a cemetery along with the victims of road accidents.  Apparently unless the death is one through illness or old age the body is not cremated.  I don't know the reasons other than it seems to a superstition.  There is no time wasted either.  The boy was buried the next day and apparently without his parents being there.  Very very sad and a reminder that pressures do exist in seemingly idyllic locations.

Tad Paxuam Waterfall and Uttayan Bajiang Village Pakse Laos

Thamuang is very close to the border with Laos.  There is also a twice daily international bus service to Pakse in Laos and it only takes about three and a half hours.  This is very convenient for me to re-new my visa to allow me to stay in Thailand a while longer.

We first visited Pakse last year - see July 2011 blog posts.

The border at Chong Mek (Thailand) and Vang Tao (Laos) has changed a lot in the last year and travellers now have go through an underground tunnel from Thailand to Laos (and vice versa).  It's different, and once in the tunnel it is rather James Bondish, but I can't for the life of me think why they have gone to so much trouble when the border control and customs procedures are so informal.  No luggage is checked so the transfer of anything one way and the other is easy.

An unusual way to cross borders

 We stayed at the Champasak Palace hotel again.  The quirky but good hotel that stands so dominant by the river Se and close to the enormous Mekong river.

After a good night's sleep we rented a motorbike for 60,000 kip (about £4.75 - amazing value) and rode the 35 kms or so to the waterfall known as Tad Paxuam and the ethnic village called Uttayam Bajiang.  I mentioned in last year's post that the driving in Pakse was at best mayhem, and I can report that after one year there is no apparent improvement.  I rode the bike with caution and still wonder how I picked my way through the traffic.  At one point I can remember being overtaken and undertaken whilst seeing bikes and cars coming towards me from the right and left.  It was like being in a real life video game.  

Once we left the outskirts of Pakse we could relax and soon reached Uttayan Bajiang.  The village is the culmination of years of hard work by a successful businessman Wimol Kijbamrung.  He describes how he arrived at the site in 1999 and set to work with the local villagers.  All they had was an old hoe between them and Wimol describes that the most valuable item then held between them was an old bicycle frame!  The site had been stripped of its wild life as the locals would kill almost anything with a heart beat and moving for food.  Gradually the site was transformed and given back to nature, for example 25,000 indigenous trees were planted.  The locals have survived and in the locality 13 tribes exist side by side.  Visitors can stay in traditional houses and enjoy a break next to the nature of the Bolaven Plateau.  The villagers produce crafts and generally manage the area.

Sadly Wimol was struck down with malaria just one week after the village opened and as a result he is blind.  However, his enthusiasm lives on in a quest and promise to support and sustain the culture and nature.

Main waterfall

Bridge constructed entirely of bamboo

Guest house

Guest house

Jungle house

Jungle house

Local explaining the pan pipes

Sorry the video is on its side - but its worth a look anyway

We had a very pleasant couple of hours wandering round this really beautiful conservation area.  The locals are friendly and the wildlife abundant.  

We then moved on to the Tad Fane waterfall, which we visited last year as well.  The area is obviously being developed at a fast rate for industry because of the proximity to the Thai border, and tourism with resorts, luxury villas and restaurants.  Nevertheless, it is a beautiful area and if you get the chance just go for it.  There are connections onwards to Cambodia and Vietnam by overnight bus at good rates.

Chiang Mai Doi Inthanon National Park

I have limited experience of organising family outings and especially trying to cater for tastes between awkward teenagers and elderly parents.  In addition, in Thailand, when you ask the question 'What would you like to do?', invariably the reply is 'Up to YOU!'  So it is best to make your own decisions and lo and behold, everyone will follow, possibly groaning and complaining about your choice, but if they do it doesn't show too much.

So it was up to me to decide to take the family on a day's trip to Doi Inthanon National Park, where we were promised a hotel pick up in the mini van, a trip to the highest point in Thailand, a visit to the Royal Pagodas and garden, a quick tour of fine examples of two waterfalls and a visit to a Karen tribe village - and lunch.  I thought this was an impressive menu of delights and should satisfy most of the wishes of the family, and certainly keep us occupied for a day.

The tour was organised by Journey Tours and easily booked by the hotel reception.  The mini van arrived Sunday morning, slightly later than anticipated, but our guide who was called Moon, greeted us all with a broad smile and a warm welcome as we joined the other eight people on board the comfortable mini bus.

About an hour and a half later we entered the National Park and started the long uphill drive to the top of the mountain.  In my former life as a mountaineer I have struggled with acute mountain sickness at 6,000 metres in the Himalaya, I have climbed ten 4,000 metre plus mountains in the Alps and walked up countless mountains in Great Britain.  However, I have never ever driven up a mountain in a mini bus.  I am ashamed to say I have stood on the highest point of Thailand, but actually I got there by a taxi.  My guilt seemed to accentuate when Moon informed us that the mountain was in fact on the eastern edge of the Himalayas!  Guests gasped with gratuitous gratitude and glee, I gulped at my guilt and looked out of the window into the rain, which increased my depression.  Has it all come down to this?

Entrance to the Park and the start of the drive up to the highest point in Thailand

The summit team at Doi Inthanon 2565 metres

Next stop was the site of  pagodas dedicated to Thailand's highly respected King and Queen .  These impressive structures were constructed by the Thai Royal Air Force to commemorate the 60th birthdays of Their Majesties The King and Queen in 1987 and 1992 respectively. Sadly the rain clouds would not part, so instead of spectacular views we got the atmospheric ones.

The Queen's pagoda in the foreground, the King's at the back, the family on the bridge

We then moved on to a waterfall, the name of which escapes me, but it did involve a short walk to its base.  This being the rainy season, the falls where in full flow and quite impressive.

Moon informed us that the park includes three distinct types of forest - rain forest, deciduous and evergreen. Whilst at the rain forest Moon informed us it is distinctive by its growth of fern on the bark.  She scoffed at my joke that it always seemed to rain in a rain forest.

The walk to the falls 

The falls falling and the family looking impressed

A view from down stream

An impressive fern

Next stop was lunch.  This was good and was included in the cost of the trip.  There was plenty of Thai chicken and fish dishes with a smattering of papaya salads, rice etc.  We then walked over to waterfall number two, which was much more impressive than the waterfall one.

First view of waterfall two

Mama and Khamma

Rainbow

 Finally, we made a short trip to a Karen village.  This area of northern Thailand is populated by many hill and forest tribes who are still trying to live their lives in the way of their ancestors.  Modernisation makes it easy to move to the city for a new life, but opportunities are not always what they seem to be.  The Thai government is keen to keep the old traditions alive, at least for the flourishing tourist trade, and invest in keeping the tribes and the their ways of life.  Crafts and agriculture help them and of course group visits like ours help with sales of textiles, coffee and other crafts.

Karen weavers

Karen rice fields

That just about wrapped up the trip.  A great day out for all the family, they were all tired out and fell asleep on the journey back to Chiang Mai - OK I did as well.

Moon did an excellent job, moving round from guest to guest explaining everything in Thai and English.  The driver was called Nick and although he drove very fast, he was good and several times he looked after Mama where the walk or the weather was too much for her.

If you ever decide to go on this tour - make sure you pick Journey Tours.

Click here for Journey Tours Chiang Mai