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Wednesday 10 December 2008

The Singaporean

I had promised myself to compare Paul Theroux's observation of the Singaporean with my own thoughts, and as I wait to leave the apartment I have that opportunity.
Mr Theroux was treated with utmost courtesy by the sweetest, most solicitous people he had met on his journey. But he believes it is 'horribly unfair that there was so little room for people to grow and be happy', and that there was a 'conform or leave' rule which left the Singaporean in a condition of arrested development whilst being reminded that they were lucky to be governed by the inspired leadership of the Lee family. Lee was a social leveller but in doing so he had elevated himself, introduced contradictions and created a society in which there were privileges for the few and monotony for the many. The Lee family and his followers had great ideas but they do not when to stop.
These are strong words but thought provoking. Singapore people do feel comfortable being led and do not mind being told what to do, and many are immigrants so they must be comfortable with the society they have chosen to belong to. There are many rules but when you ask around the consensus is that you can do whatever you want - just don't get caught. And there are many people willing to snitch on you. Even my little old lady neighbour had a word with Khamma to tell her a lady had been staying with me; Khamma was relieved to know it was Clare my daughter. The new craze of public journalism is very popular in Singapore because it legitimises and encourages snitching on somebody. So in this sense people should mind their own business and get a life.
As in any society there are those that are progressive and look at the world through a half full glass, as well as those that see it as half empty. But in Singapore there is a third type that look at the world in perpetual bewilderment, like the rabbit frozen in fear in the headlights of a car. These are the same people that bump into you in the street because they don't realise they walking without looking, these are the same people that queue everyday for a free newspaper that cannot be distributed before 7.30am. Their lives are governed by habit enforced by rules and regulations.
Some people feel claustrophobic by the restrictions and many are conscious that looking good is everything and what goes on behind the facade is nobodies business. The Singaporean salary is well below the UK equivalent but they can afford to shop in a consumer orientated market. They are in many respects no different than their UK counterparts. But you get the feeling that when they venture into the world outside of the Singapore comfort zone it will be a 'big adventure'.
So maybe Mr Theroux has a point. Maybe the effect of living in Singapore makes the Singaporean strange without knowing they are strange. At the end of day it doesn't matter. Sure I have met some strange people but I have in other countries as well, and perhaps living in down town USA makes people strange without them knowing it, or UK or South Africa.
I have met some really lovely people and made friends with all of them. I have at times been surprised by acts of kindness and friendliness, and this has endeared me to Singapore. I am sorry to leave but very grateful and thankful to Singapore for the experience.
As they say in the movies 'I'll be back!".

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