The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux 3,946 metres 28th 29th August 1990 Part 2

Phil's drawing of the route taken

Ascent of Mont Pelvoux (3,946metres) 28^th 29^th August 1990

By

Phil Winder

Part 2

No problem returning to the col, but the couloir looked a lot steeper going down.  We also had a new problem.  The layer of new snow which had adhered to the ice and provided some support earlier in the day was now AVALANCHING down without any help from us.  Every few steps and we went into an involuntary slide.  OK except that there was a large crevasse below us.  All did several ice axe arrests – Pete decided to turn face into the slope.  Progress was slow.

The way over the bergschrund looked dodgy; it was either a spirited leap or an abseil.  A convenient rock embedded in the ice provided an anchor.  Ray was doubtful.  A channel was cut in the ice round the rock (just like John Hard showed us at Torside J).  Phil tried it.  OK.  Next Pete, then Ray.  The angle of the slope relaxed as we reached the main glacier.  Back to the rocks and moraine and a rest and off with the crampons at last, after 7 hours.  The ice slope was avoided by skirting around it.  All that remained between us and the SAFETY OF THE HUT were the dreaded ICE SERAC BLOCKS.  It was a desperate spot.  The Glacier du Clot de l’Homme hung in natural ice arches above us.  The blocks as big and green as snooker tables were fresh and clean.  Pete scrambled half way across and stopped.  MY GOD he’s stopped in the middle.  ‘I have to clean my glasses’.  Phil shot past him muttering unprintable words.

Twenty minutes later (1400 hours) we were in the ‘nice’ cabine consuming omelettes au champignons and a nice bowl of TEA.  It was Phil’s turn to carry the ROPE AGAIN.  Just below the hut, a loud rumbling (not the effect of the omelettes) signalled yet another fall of ice blocks – thought provoking?  (One of those could alter your looks).

Trudging down the lacets (remember that word?) and along the valley, savouring the tranquillity of the alpine scene and the contentment after an epic ascent.  Past the pinewoods, overtaking tourists, past the towering rock faces – ‘NEIL! NEIL! Climb when you’re bloody ready!’

FIN

Foot notes

—        When making ice axe arrest you should caution it with the words, ‘Anything you say may be used in evidence.’

—        Glacier du Clot de l’Homme – probably means something rude.  Clot is from the verb ‘clore’ – to close, shut or end.

—        Repere – means a mark – this peak has a trig point

—        Le Phoque (m) means a seal – the one that smells of fish

 

P.W.



Couloir Coolidge (photo by Thomas Gurviez from http://www.summitpost.org/ - permission pending)