A side trip to Kuala Lumpur

The brilliantly floodlit Petronas Towers

A few weeks ago, when Khamma was staying with me in Singapore, we decided to go for a weekend to Kuala Lumpur the capital of Malaysia , or KL as it is colloquially known as. Singapore is separated from Malaysia by a narrow stretch of water but the contrasts between the two countries is obvious. We travelled on Friday afternoon by special chartered bus for the five hour journey. It was very comfortable and relaxing and it allowed us to see the lush banana and rubber tree plantations for mile after mile on the highway travelling north.

In my coolness as a seasoned traveller I decided the best way to get Malaysian money, which is known as the 'Ringgit', was to wait until I saw the nearest ATM. This wasn't a bad idea except where the bus stopped wasn't the exactly the middle of town but we found a machine eventually and then set about trying to get to the Renaissance (thanks Clare) on the monorail. We could have jumped into taxi, but where is the fun in that? The monorail was very easy and the hotel was a short walk across a busy highway from the station. It felt exciting to be a new place together for the first time.

Most of my travel, with notable exceptions on the trips I have done with Dave, have been solo efforts. I don't mind travelling on my own too much but I do get severely underwhelmed when I cannot share a discovery with someone. For example mootching round New York on your own isn't brilliant, neither was exploring Latvia and Estonia much fun with just my own thoughts for company. But this was different. KL was new to me and an exciting new experience for Khamma as well, who, don't forget, hadn't been out Thailand until twelve months ago. She put all her trust in me (foolish girl!) and just laughed and smiled with sheer joy and wonderment.

It was a distinct pleasure to accompany this beautiful lady throughout the weekend!

The hotel was opposite the famous Petronas Twin Towers which are 452 metres high with stainless steel and glass cladding on the walls. They are spectacular when lit up at night and represent the Malaysian national oil company with the same name. The design is detailed on Islamic geometric shapes, and the significance of this was not lost when comparing the building with other Twin Towers that no longer exist.

The view from half way up the Petronas Towers

Malaysia is predominantly Islamic and this is noticeable in the way the Malay women are dressed in traditional head scarfs, the ubiquitous mosques and the Halal food stalls, but it is also very friendly, relaxed and in some areas very modern. The juxtaposition of Islam and Walkman is interesting amongst the youth travelling on the monorail but we were not made to feel uncomfortable or unwelcome.

We visited the Petronas Towers and were lucky to be given a couple of tickets to visit the observation Skybridge on the 41st floor. The tickets are limited to 800 per day and they are free. We also visited the excellent aquarium and now we have to have one back in Thamuang as Khamma found them fascinating. I'm not against this idea actually as long as the cats can't get at it!

We visited the China Town market which is a raucous place that feels as though it is edging on the very dodgy and seamy side of KL, and just below the surface it is easy to imagine an underworld of activity that is best left alone if you have any sense. But having said that there were plenty of bargains for Johnny Foreigner ranging from fake LV bags to Puma trainers.

We also visited a mosque where I made Khamma wear a headscarf and cover her shoulders to respect the etiquette of the faith. She aged about thirty years in a comical appearance of half 'bag lady' and half of something like a 1960's teddy boy's girl friend. I couldn't help take her picture but promised to delete it later. (Note: I must get around to doing that one day). We found a pleasant indoor bazaar / market and I bought Khamma a beautiful white woolen shawl that really suited her with the Indian cotton dress and top bought in Singapore.

All too soon we had to return on the bus to Singapore but we both commented as we crossed the border how much cleaner Singapore is and somehow brighter and more confident.

Blog rules ok?

Khamma has been staying with me in Singapore over the last three weeks and at first I was fretting that I couldn't keep the blog up to date. Then I realised that I should rule the blog not let the blog rule me! I guess it was becoming addictive but I am pleased to say that I realised what was happening and that spending precious time with Khamma is infinitely better than writing the blog. Sadly though Khamma has now gone back to Thamuang and my life in Asia is re-adjusting back to the reality that was created before, but not exactly. I have been joined in Singapore by Mike who is a colleague from the UK. Over the years I have worked with Mike in the US and in the UK and he has taken over the spare room. He is welcome company even though he supports Liverpool!

We also had other guests last weekend when Dave and Ann visited us for a few days. Dave is a good friend from England and together we have had many adventures from freezing bivouacs on the side of Swiss mountains to epic river journeys in Laos and from DIY safari adventures on the Skeleton Coast of Namibia to running the New York marathon. He met Ann at the same time I met Khamma and, like me, his life has taken a new direction.

Whilst Khamma was in Singapore we visited the opera, the zoo, China Town, Little India, Arab Street, Tampines, the rain forest and a host of hawker centres where cheap and good food is plenty. We also had a weekend in Kuala Lumpur in the luxury of the Marriott Renaissance next to the Petronas Towers.

I have never known three weeks to pass so quickly and it was a difficult day last Tuesday as she returned to Thailand.

Back in the village there had been a shortage of decent rainfall for the rice and there was more than a hint of concern that the harvest would be poor. However the rain did eventually come and in Singapore you could hear the slurping and gulping of water from the thirsty rice plants in Thamuang. The relief on Khamma's face was noticeable and I was treated to an even wider smile and a hug when she learned the news from her brother. Since she has returned home she has spent her days in the fields making everything 'beautiful' and ready for harvest in early November. She loves the rice fields and is completely absorbed with the cycle of planting, growing and harvesting. The Thamuang farmers constantly compare their fields with one another in friendly rivally reminiscent of the proud villagers at the annual Diggle garden fete showing off their fine vegetables after a year's hard graft in the allotments. Her description paints a picture in my mind and I can visualise the view of the rice from the windows of Owerrrouse. When I spoke to her last night I could tell she was tired and although we both wanted to chat we had to finish to let her sleep. I guess today will be the same.

She took back from Singapore a special arrangement to show off the Buddha display in the house. We bought a gold lacquered plate which will be the background to display the Buddha with a couple of gold vases for offerings. We think it will be perfect and it is important to display our thanks and respect before we go about buying materialistic clutter like a TV and a DVD and whatever.

This is something new for me but I am relating to the traditions and customs very easily and we both have a belief that due to co-incidences neither of us can understand or explian we were brought together by following the Buddhist truths and paths. Our very different backgrounds have joined together and we both enjoy the discovery of our cultures and lifestyles. I have been truely amazed by Khamma's knowledge of nature and her keen eye in the forests for edible mushrooms and plants. Equally she is amazed by the confidence of the foreigner in the urban jungles of Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. There is no doubt she is happy in her fields and I wish to spend more time there as well.

Life in Asia goes on.