More Songkhran and a School Re-Union

There was one more push to squeeze the final amount of money out of the merit seeking villagers. The band was to meet in the late Sunday afternoon sunshine, we then started in turn from several households scattered at the four corners of the village to escort the family through the streets back to the temple. During the morning the families were busy creating more elaborate floral displays with money inter twinned with wild flowers, leaves and other foliage in a bed of rice. Two or even three households teamed up together and there was unofficial competition between them to see who danced the best, who looked the best, which display was biggest and who was the loudest. No prizes except increased pride!

I was tired and my hand was sore, but I wanted to play and so I met the boys at roughly the arranged time, give or take an hour, and we walked a short distance to the first house. With the family in procession we set off in a noisy but rhythmic parade to the temple. The family danced, the children ran in between them, the cats and dogs dived for cover. This carried on all afternoon until the sun set. We made five or six escorts back to the temple and then collapsed in a heap. It was less formal than the previous day, but the band plays on and plays its heart out.

The next day was the main songkhran day. This is the day when everybody, and I mean everybody, gets a good soaking. The only exceptions are the old and frail, pregnant ladies and grumpy men. We decided to go to a beauty spot about eighty kilometres away called '3,000 boats'. I might have all of this wrong because I couldn't for the life of me work out why it should be called 3,000 boats. I am not even sure where it is, but never mind!

The plan was simple, it has to be because this is Thailand. We opted, well my mind played out the fantasy, for a military campaign. Our arsenal consisted of three huge water butts placed on the pick up truck full of high grade explosive water. The personal firearms were hand sized scoops used to throw the water over a twenty to thirty yard trajectory in the direction of the enemy. We climbed aboard and took up position and on instruction from Field Marshall Sir Thamuang Farang we set off. Those of you that saw the movie Kelly's Heroes will get the picture! We had travelled all of one hundred metres before encountering our first skirmish with a well armed but fixed position para-military songkhran unit (FPPMSU). They were six or seven strong and well armed with powerful but well used plastic ex US Army 'H2O grenade launchers; Made in China' supplied by Tesco Lotus Arms Dealership in Ubon. We took a hit on the offside of our troop carrier but manage to return fire with several rounds of water droplets from the hand scoops. No casualties except for a mild wetting of the upper garments. A good opening round to warm up.

The Toyota Troop Carrier is an ideal RTTC (Rapid Transit Troop Carrier) designed for off road warfare in rural Thailand

We advanced north towards Trakan Phutphon on the main 2050 road. There were several small groups of guerilla fighters on both sides of the road, but the speed of the Toyota troop carrier ensured we were not hit. There was an early problem with range finding on several of the hand scoops and it took a while to adjust the sighting mechanism and the WARF (Wind Adjustment Range Finder). The problem seemed to be related to the amount of water in the hand scoop and the speed of the troop carrier. Some of the platoon solved this quickly and were prompted to positions at the back of the carrier, some of the troops needed more practice and were given time but were reminded that a direct hit had serious consequences, and the rest couldn't get the hang of it so they huddled up behind the wind break and the FWD (Forward Water Deflector).

In all cases of rapid advancement by SUTC (Single Unit Troop Carriers) there is a danger of meeting the enemies mobile seek and destroy units (MSDU's for short). We encountered several high performance 4x4 Hummer type vehicles with the latest high powered polypropylene Chinese 'H20 grenade launchers; Made in China', supplied by 'Big C Arms and Defence Manufacturers' in Ubon. This weapon carries much more force and is able to lob huge globules of water for considerable distances with remarkable accuracy which explode on impact soaking the victim to the skin. We could not compete with this technology and suffered heavy causalities. Water everywhere and a clothes wet through.

Under attack from rebels at a fixed position para-military Songkhran unit (FPPMSU)

This strategy continued all the way to our target destination. We had to re-arm at a fuel dump but by then we had penetrated the enemy lines and we were marching towards victory. Police road blocks were encountered in several sensitive areas. An uneasy truce broke out in the area just before and after the barriers. Knowing that the enemy lies within at these road blocks, and 'Rambo' Songkhran tactics will not be effective, requires strong leadership. Field Marshall Sir Thamuang Farang was lucky to be advised by a first class platoon with immense local ground knowledge, and he was able to restrain the young tigers in his control from instant detention in the Ubon Ratchathani Police Hilton. Only once was Private Yo Sroikham allowed a single sniper shot at a police man. He hit the target across the chest and an instant soaking marked the policeman's pristine uniform. Our driver was too fast, and Private Sroikham's punishment was restricted to a wave from the laughing policeman. On the final approach we encountered remaining insurgent groups but they were easy pickings as news spread that the victorious Thamuang army had won.

A loyal soldier from the Thamuang Songkhran Army in full camouflage

After a quick walk round the beauty spot and a very poor meal we retraced our steps to Thamuang. After a few soakings I decided to pull rank and sit inside the cab with the driver to discuss navigational and strategic manoeuvres and have a well earned sleep.

Later that night Khamma and I went to the village school re-union. I expected a few people and polite conversation and maybe a beer if I was lucky. I was wrong again and amazed to see the school yard transformed into an open air restaurant with about 800 guests. There was a stage and a band and the lighting was just enough to make a very special event under the warm sky and twinkling stars. Being constantly surprised is a great reason to be in Thamuang. Apparently people had travelled from Bangkok and Chiang Mai (hundreds of miles) to be here and catch up on the gossip and fortunes of past pupils. It was a great night and a fitting end to a wonderful weekend.

Next day I travelled back to Hong Kong but I cannot settle. There is a way of life in Thamuang that cannot be replicated in Hong Kong, and there are family and friends in England I miss so much. Hong Kong is good but I will move on once the airport business is finished.