Theroux's Singapore - The Cityscape

Imaginative design in Singapore

The new Singapore Flyer

The Singapore Cricket Club in the Central Business District

The old Singapore shophouse

Mr Theroux introduces Singapore as 'Little Tinky-Winky Singapore'. An image of Disney and sparkly glitter dropping out of the black equatorial night sky. But he really meant that the city was completely transformed and had a 'tinkered with look', nothing was the same, nothing familiar. The street names are the same but the streets are not in the same place. He sees Singapore as 'a single modernized piece of geography' where the island, city and rural areas are one and the same and its boundary marked by the muddy shores of the land reclamation.

Cities change constantly because that is what they are supposed to do. Manchester's transformation is remarkable, Hong Kong and Shanghai are further examples of cities evolving and adapting to reflect the status of their inhabitants. Many cities cannot make this change so easily because of the infrastructure they are built on, New York is a good example, and in these cases the changes are less obvious. This type of city will change from the inside by recognising they need to change the social infrastructure, the welfare of its people, it's transport policy. Cities that don't change lack colour and life and a good example to compare with Singapore is Toronto. Thirty five years ago Toronto was the Singapore of the west with a high immigrant population, lots of growth and go ahead economy. This was reflected in the CN Tower, the Sears centre, the rapid transit system, the young hard 'get-go' work force. Nothing much has changed; the CN Tower is still there, the bank buildings, City Hall. It has become more drab and dull and even the people seemed to have dropped down a gear.

1. Singapore or where? (Answer at end)

Singapore during the same period took its independence and in the attempt to establish itself as a credible world trade centre started to change its appearance and its soul at the same time. Architecturally appealing buildings replaced the old 'downtown' shophouses to establish the city's raison d'etre; money, and lots of it. This is the sole reason for Singapore's success and the changes made is the price of success. But the sensitivity to change is a leading factor and not all of the Singapore's historic past has been cleared away as Mr Theroux suggests. A short walk away from the CBD (Central Business District) you can relax at Clark's Quay where the old shop houses have been restored into restaurants and bars. Even if this is not your style a short walk in other directions brings you to the heart of China Town or Little India or Bugis which are different areas still retaining a lot of the charm and architecture from the last hundred years or so, and no doubt the trading and markets amongst the residents hasn't changed much either. It doesn't have the bustle of Hong Kong or the intensity of Delhi, but you cannot re-create something that is unique.

Mr Theroux observed that fly overs have replaced narrow lanes, that parks have replaced slums, it is a city of restaurants and department stores. This much is true and change is needed to replace structure that wears out. But I think at this point he is leading to something a bit more subtle. Without doubt Singapore is a nation built of shopping malls. Of course there are malls and designer shops in the centre of every world city, but in Singapore modern shopping malls abound all over the island. This policy has created a new pastime for the Singaporean; shopping at every opportunity, day or night, in the city in the suburbs. He is right in this respect but the inhabitants have to do something with the money they earn in the big offices in the CBD! My friends think the mall culture is Singapore's 'cat walk' where both city and people are desperate to be seen in a showcase. This much is true but again a short distance away you can be immersed in different cultures where the markets and shops reflect less obtrusive styles.

2. Singapore or where?

Singapore is diverse but it is no less conscious of its image than other world cities. I remember looking at the city on the first night of the Grand Prix and thinking what a great job they had done and how much they can look forward to as a result of reinvention since Independence. I think Mr Theroux was too nostalgic and whilst he tells that his time here in the sixties was a heady mix of confrontation with authority you can detect a soft spot for the old town and its atmosphere. There is no future in nostalgia.

Mr Theroux concludes that the effect of living in Singapore's newly transformed landscape has resulted in the Singaporean citizen becoming strange without knowing they are strange. Hmmm! Now that's a different kettle of fish.

3. Singapore or where?

4. Singapore or where?

5. Singapore or where?

Answers:

1. Times Square New York
2. Sears Center Toronto
3. Bangkok
4. Toronto
5. Hong Kong

Singapore Grand Prix - THE MOVIE

Just for a bit of fun I have made a short movie from scenes at the weekend's Grand Prix.

Oh! What a night!

THE SINGAPORE GRAND PRIX EXCEEDED ALL EXPECTATIONS BUT LIKE ALL GOOD PROJECTS THERE WAS A PLAN B. THERE IS ALWAYS 'HOPE' TO RELY ON AND A BIT OF TLC TO MAKE IT BETTER AGAIN.

Massa messes up! Alonso says 'I told you so'. Mr Hamilton is Mr Sensible.

That sums up the race, although of course it was much more exciting than that. The building up of tension and expectation before the race was almost touchable. I could sense that this was an occasion and suddenly the hype seemed worth it. There was the usual beauty parade of the stars of the show before hand and I think it was very big of these young men to show their appreciation in a build up when, for most other sports people, they like to psyche themselves up and go into a little bubble. I enjoyed seeing these racers and they genuinely seemed to enjoy the adulation.

Just in case you are wondering who this is. It is Mr Hamilton before he became Mr Sensible!

Then down to business and there was an eerie hush and tension as the countdown began. The roar of engines only just out played the roar of the crowd as the race started. All eyes glued onto the giant TV screen as Massa took the first bend and Mr Hamilton could only settle in behind. As the cars passed my vantage point for the first time the crowd went into manic mode as cameras of every shape and size clicked and whirred at the short procession of multi million dollar technology whizzing and roaring by.

Of course Massa was increasing his lead and just when I found my eyes automatically following the blizzard of technicolour vision and ear busting noise there was the unmistakable bump of car hitting concrete and Nelson Piquet's car suddenly looked a lot smaller than it had moments before. Almost in front of me the car hit the right hand barrier and swung across to the left side, and in between were bits of carbon fibre and metal. The drama was only just begining as our attention was diverted to the 'Massa Mess' in the pits. The sight of a fuel hose flapping wildly with petrol pouring out of one end and it still attached to the car at the other was straight out of Laurel and Hardy. It was very lucky nobody was seriously hurt, but I bet there was serious talking going on this morning pin pointing who was at fault, even though Massa was very quick to say that no-one was to blame. Yeh right, I believe you Massa.

No point in having 3rd party, fire and theft insurance in Formula One is there.

Luckily this Nelson hadn't lost an eye, only his pride and the race restarted with Mr Hamilton not believing his luck. As for Alonso well his come back from a wrecked car the previous night and only fifteenth on the grid was a great comeback - in my book heroic because it was against the odds. Mr Hamilton settled into cruise control and realised he only had to finish to consolidate his position at the top of the Driver's Championship. Sensible young man, that Hamilton chap!

Well that was it all over and done and dusted. What a great weekend and especially for Singapore and the thousands that came into town and discovered the jewel of South Asia.

Even though I have been here for only five months I felt some pride at the way this event was staged. The Singapore government are go ahead and determined to make this little island special and this weekend's event went a long way in telling the world that this is a special country.

Very sensible road sign on the Singapore circuit

Khamma's going to give me loads of YAK YAK for this one!

Saturday Night at the Races

This road sign was repeatedly ignored by twenty of the world's best drivers.

Saturday was day 2 of the Grand Prix and the weather was superb. This brought out the crowds and there was a distinct carnival atmosphere. Smiling and happy faces everywhere; the main ingredient for the Singapore Spirit!

I arrived a little earlier to walk around and see the sideshow attractions and was soon rewarded with a display of the Samba from Rio. The quick tempo and the Latin beat seemed to rise from the distance and soon the vibrant colours of the head dresses made no secret that there was a party taking place.

Further on, close to a display of Ferraris and Lamborghinis, attractive Singaporean girls in skimpy clothes would pose and groups of friends egged each other on to have their photos taken and claim a few moments of fantasy.

Elsewhere disco beats, Indian fusion with sitar and tabulas, the ubiquitous bars, hawker stalls and of course the people made a relaxing afternoon stroll. I called into our restaurants in the Flyer and they continued to be busy and expect it to be relentless for the rest of the day.

The action on the track soon started and as I have only had a relative interest based on watching out for Lewis, I soon picked up on the excitement as the qualifying sessions passed by. Mr Hamilton was lucky to get through the first session and seemed to have the final session in the bag until Mr Massa ended on a flourish and took the first spot on the starting grid tonight.

I have sussed out how you can tell who is driving by the colour of the helmet. A small but significant point in adding to the thrill, but I am colour blind so it isn't altogether that easy. Maybe Mr Eccleston could introduce another rule to help those like me that are challenged by colour identification.

There were many more people attending than last night and the exit from the Marina Mall was a nightmare, but the Singaporean Home Guard did a great job and everyone behaved.

Bring it on tonight!!!

The Singapore Grand Prix

A strange sign at the inaugural Singapore Night Race F1 Grand Prix

Last night saw the first night racing in Grand Prix history and the honour fell to Singapore to host this massive event. Throughout my stay since April there have been signs of preparation, mainly in the Singapore Flyer complex where construction of the pits and 'mega bucks' hospitality suites have been taking shape. And in particular over the last four or five weeks as the street circuit took shape. I decided in May that it was worth a gamble to buy tickets because I figured I would still here and in any case if I wasn't I could easily sell them on.

Singapore itself has been typically low key in its excitement during the build up. Several newspapers and the TV have not been slow to point out that to the average Singaporean this event is hardly the highlight of the week, never mind year. There has been a bit of bewilderment about it and a distinct lack of local hype and even scepticism that the predicted 100,000 additional visitors would bring in any extra trade. Even my own company did not know what the impact would be and we have three restaurants at the Flyer right in the heart of the action! However as usual I was like a little boy at Christmas time and was eagerly anticipating my first ever Grand Prix. There was a time when I thought the 'sport' was actually a pointless pursuit and a waste of time and money as a circus travelled around from country to country driving cars round in circles. What does this say about global carbon footprints? Not very good. But then I gradually changed from the opinionated pontificating youth to a 'middle aged' grumpy bloke and realised that fast cars were actually all right. I bought a brand new Audi TT in a fit of crisis and started to enjoy a freedom of expression. Yes, after years of barking on about the world should do this and the world should do that, I took a long hard look at myself and thought 'Sod it', and started to do things that were actually enjoyable like having sporty cars. It also co-incided with the emergence of Lewis Hamilton at a time when Great Britain needed sporting hero's (see previous entry about this definition). The football teams failed to reach any finals, the cricket team were not dominating the scene like they did with the Ashes series and so on. But Hamilton was new, fresh, young and arrogant. He is also actually quite good and so my interest in his success and in F1 grew.

Last night I set off expecting the crowd and atmosphere to be like Old Trafford when they play Arsenal, but actually it was very different. The organisation of an event like this very much depends on learning lessons from previous events and let's hope the organisers can put up proper signage to direct you to your stand where your expensive seat awaits. Let's hope the staff know their directions to these places, because I asked two policemen, two 'ushers' and a ticket collector where my stand was and only one of them knew. If I have difficulties I can only assume others did. But like everything else on these occasions the event itself is bigger than these little issues and eventually I settled down in the dusky night sky as the illumination from the lights around the 5 kilometre track began to glow and make for an amazing set and back drop. This was spectacular and will put Singapore in the world spot light, literally, and show it off at its glorious and best. Singapore will be very, very proud at the image that is going round the world this weekend.

Singapore's Spirit and looking very much the fantastic city it truly is!

The cars themselves are amazing, much faster than you think they are on TV, and very noisy even with ear plugs. My seat is quite good on the S bend on the Waterfront Esplanade and there is a big TV screen showing action around the track. I still find it difficult to identify who is who as the cars in each team appear identical, but after a while you can tell who is driving and Hamilton has a style so different from the rest. He handles the car with economic style and it is easy to understand how he can pick up vital one hundredths of a second to emerge as the leader. This isn't quite true because Alonso popped up and spoilt the show, but I don't think Hamilton is too worried with another practice session scheduled for tonight. There were two ninety minute practice sessions - that is equivalent to two football matches and it was very enjoyable.

The entertainment off the track was good with plenty of hawker food outlets, bands, discos and the 'Official F1 Merchandise' outlets where even T shirts at 100S$ seem out place when you can buy the 'same' T shirt in China Town for 10S$. Think about it!

Anyway back to the track tonight for the next instalment............

My first attempt at taking a picture of a car travelling at 100mph! Thanks Luv!

My second and to be honest last attempt. I gave up taking any more photographs to save the planet's resources. Ha! Ha!